Wednesday, 29 July 2015 18:23

Request for Inspection of Fixe Lowering Stations Inox

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Fixe: Request for Inspection of Anchors and Chains in Lowering Stations

07/29/2015: Barcelona, Spain: The spanish manufacturer of climbing-safety-hardware TechRock request for inspection the lowering stations and stations for abseiling with chains inox from Fixe. Some chains were detected in Germany where corrosion and tiny cracks is seen in the material. It had been an incident in Germany with an anchor that suddenly broke unpredictable due the corrosion affectation.

Tuesday, 25 March 2014 13:27

Sterling Rope Recall: Sewn Cords Due to Fall Hazard

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Sewn cords break at a lower weight than published weight values, posing a fall hazard.

2014/03/25, Biddeford, Maine, USA: The US-manufacturer of life safety rope, cord and hardware, Sterling Rope, recalls sewn cords ropes with 8mm cords for prusik e.g. The cords not meeting the standards.

Micro-Cracks And Vibrations Broke Carabiners in Pulleys for Zip Lines

Petzl Warns and Invoice for Inspection the Vertigo Carabiners

2014/03/18, Crolles, France: The manufacturer of safety and climbing equipmwent Petzl invoice for inspection Vertigo carabiners for the pulleys Trac and Trac Plus. The inspection routine must change.

Three adventure parks that operate zip lines have informed Petzl of cases where a VERTIGO carabiner broke on the TRAC and TRAC PLUS pulleys.

TRAC  TRAC PLUS

Metallurgical analyses have shown that the breakage is caused by a corrosion micro-crack that forms on the surface and spreads very slowly through vibration fatigue in the most stressed part of the carabiner (see photo below). This crack was not detected during repeated PPE inspections, as it is located in the upper part of the carabiner which is hidden by the pulleys’ side plates.

Vertigo-Karabiner Microrisse  Vertigo-Karabiner Microrisse detail

According to Petzl analyses, this phenomenon is a result of the combination of two contributing factors:

• a corrosive environment: near the ocean, a stretch of water, etc.
• very intensive use: combining a high frequency of use with a very long zip line produces vibration effects.

As a result of this feedback from the field, Petzl recommends:

When inspecting your parkfs PPE, the VERTIGO carabiner should always be removed from the TRAC and TRAC PLUS pulleys to allow for a complete and detailed inspection. As outlined in the PPE inspection procedure, any crack found on a carabiner indicates that it must be immediately retired. The PPE inspection sheet for TRAC and TRAC PLUS pulleys is available in attachment.

Adapt the frequency of TRAC and TRAC PLUS pulley PPE inspections to the intensity of use:

Distance traveled under 2 km/day = frequency: 3 months (dry environment), 2 months (humid environment)
Distance traveled over 2 km/day = frequency: 2 months (dry environment), 1 month (humid environment)

Use a back-up system that captures the zip line cable.

The inspection sheet in the attachement in english.

 How important is snow density for survival underneath an avalanche?

Experimental study conducted with test subjects and an artificial avalanche

2014/03/14, Bolzano, Italy: The snow density may play a much greater role than previously assumed in the ability of a person to survive avalanche burial. Researchers believe that the snow density could exert an even stronger influence than the size of the available air pocket in the snow. In order to investigate this theory, researchers at the EURAC Bolzano, Innsbruck Medical University, the WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF in Davos and the Institute for Sports Science of the University of Innsbruck conducted an experimental study with test subjects and an artificial avalanche in the Puster Valley (South Tyrol) between January and March 2014.

IMG 0720 kleinIn earlier studies, the researchers had observed that a person buried in an avalanche consisting of dry, loosely bonded snow can survive longer than a person engulfed by an avalanche consisting of wet, dense snow, who is likely to be asphyxiated sooner because less air penetrates the snowpack. These observations prompted the question addressed by the recent study: Exactly how great is the influence of snow density on the ability of a person to survive an avalanche burial if he has access to an air pocket in the snow and is able to breathe?

The research team restricted their study to an air pocket having a uniform volume, to a consistent temperature, and to twelve volunteers who underwent testing several times, on each occasion in different snow conditions. For the experiments, the researchers created an artificial avalanche in which they punched out a standardised air pocket for each test subject. The twelve volunteers were members of the mountain rescue teams of the South Tyrol Alpine Club and the Excise Service, and medical students from Austria and Italy. In order to guarantee their safety, the test subjects were not actually buried in the avalanche, but seated closely adjacent to the wall of snow.

For the purpose of investigating the relationship between the survival time and different snow densities, the tests were conducted in three successive cycles in January, February and March 2014.

For the tests, the volunteers breathed directly into the prepared air pocket for 30 minutes. During this 30-minute period the researchers monitored numerous parameters that are relevant to survival, including the oxygen and carbon dioxide content of the volunteers' blood as well as in the air pocket, and the oxygen saturation of the brain, along with other key body functions such as pulse and blood pressure.

In addition, the effort required to breathe in the air pocket was measured at the beginning and end of a 30-minute period. The measured values enabled the researchers to draw conclusions concerning the relationship between the snow density and survival in the event of an avalanche burial. Study project leaders Hermann Brugger and Giacomo Strapazzon of the EURAC Institute for Alpine Emergency Medicine, and Peter Paal of Innsbruck Medical University, described the rationale behind the test method.

IMG 0615 kleinThey said that the tests simulated a complex system, namely the transportation of vital oxygen into the air pocket through snow. The researchers were seeking to establish the relationship between oxygen diffusion into the air pocket and snow density, they explained, because the survival time in snow might be longer than previously assumed. In order to create a control mechanism, volunteers breathed into airtight plastic bags, eliminating the possibility of atmospheric oxygen reaching the air pocket. The control experiment was terminated after two to five minutes because of the lack of oxygen. In contrast, the volunteers breathing in air pockets in loosely bonded snow, having the same capacity, were able to continue breathing easily for 30 minutes. This illustrates the enormous variability of the survival time, depending on the density of the snow surrounding the air pocket.

In relation to the medical data, Jürg Schweizer and his research colleagues at the WSL for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF in Davos analysed the snow density and the properties of the snow surrounding the air pockets used in the tests. They took samples from each of the punched-out air pockets before and after each test, for instance, in order to establish whether the structure of the snow had been altered by the volunteers breathing into the pockets. The researchers also took deep-frozen snow samples of the air pockets back to Davos and analysed the snow structure there in the laboratory by computed tomography (CT). For the first time, moreover, they examined the air permeability of the snow in order to establish how much oxygen can pass through the snow into the air pocket. For this purpose, they extracted air from the air pocket and then measured how quickly the pressure returned from below atmospheric to normal.

The research team are now fairly confident that the snow density could play a greater role than assumed thus far in the ability of a person to survive an avalanche burial. The results of the study are expected to be available within a year. They will be especially useful for estimating the time available for rescuing and attending to people who are buried by avalanches, and for facilitating the development of new safety equipment for ski tourers, freeriders and rescue teams. In conclusion, according to the researchers, the survival curve in the event of an avalanche burial during the six months of winter is probably subject to greater fluctuations than assumed to date depending on the prevailing snow density.

 Source: eurac.edu

Thursday, 06 March 2014 14:50

New UIAA Standard Developed for Water Repellant Ropes

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10 Years of Reserch and Testing

UIAA Developed A New UIAA-Label

2014/03/06, Bern, Switzerland: A new standard for water repellent ropes has been approved by the UIAA Safety Commission after almost 10 years of research and testing.

Wednesday, 05 March 2014 11:26

Inspection for Mammut Snowpulse Avalange Airbag

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Service Bulletin for Inspection of Mammut / Snowpulse Avalanche Airbags

2014/03/03, Seon, Switzerland: The swiss manufacturer of mountaineering gear Mammut inform: Follow-up inspections have shown that there is an assembly problem affecting individual Mammut/Snowpulse avalanche airbags from the Winter 2011/2012 and Winter 2012/2013 production seasons. The problem is an improperly screwed in connector between the deployment mechanism and the venturi valve.

Tuesday, 21 January 2014 10:55

Recall: Mammut RescYou Crevasse Rescue Device

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Mammut Recalls the RescYou Crevasse Rescue Device

A Part of the Affected Tools With Nofunction

2014/01/21: Seon, Switzerland: The swiss manufacturer of mountaineering gear Mammut Sports Group recalls several charges of their crevasse rescue tool RescYou. Internal tests show the nofunction of a part of the RescYous of several charges.

Mammut sells the RescYou since 2013. The RescYou is used for ski mountaineering and mountain climbing to allow the user to haul a climber who has fallen into a crevasse back to the surface of a glacier. The device is attached to the harness (self-rescue) or a fixing point (rescue of another person). After this, two rope clamps are clipped to the rope and the compact six-fold pulley, which connects the two rope clamps, is operated.

The orange return stop of the pulley have not function. So the rope slides in the starting position and RescYou have no function.

Affected are the charges 12/12 and 03/13.

rescyou frontrescyou back

The number of the charges shows on the front.

rescyou charge1212rescyou charge0313

As a measure of precaution, Mammut ask that you:
- immediately stop using the RescYou
- return the RescYou to the Mammu dealer or to Mammut directly (at Mammut costs).

 

For shipping to Mammut:

For customers from the Europeen Union:

Mammut Sports Group GmbH
Recall RescYou
Mammut-Basecamp 1
D-87787 Wolfertschwenden

E-Mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Tel: +41 (0)62 769 82 59
www.mammut.ch

For customers from Swiss and outside Europeen Union:

Mammut Sports Group AG
Recall RescYou
Birren 5
CH-5703 Seon

E-Mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Tel: +41 (0)62 769 82 59
www.mammut.ch

For customers from USA and Canada:

Mammut Sports Group, Inc
458 Hurricane Lane, Ste 111
Williston, VT 05495

email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Tel.: (800) 451-5127, between 9am and 5pm Eastern
time, Monday through Friday
www.mammut.ch

Thursday, 21 November 2013 15:26

Warning: Edelrid Connecto Bolts Checking

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Edelrid is Warning for Self Replaced Wrong Bolts or Not Checked Connectos

Connecto from Edelrid must inspected

2013/11/21, Isny, Germany: The german manufacturer of climbing gear EDELRID checks their bolts on the hardware products Connecto. During the course of extensive checking of the bolts on the hardware products “Conecto”, “Conecto Small” and “Conecto Swivel” by EDELRID, it was ascertained that:

many of the bolts were not inspected yearly,

some of the bolts were damaged (the only way to detect if the bolt is damaged is by checking the torque),

some of the bolts had been replaced by users with bolts that did not have the required strength class.

Edelrid warns and request for self inspection and replacement.

Monday, 18 November 2013 20:01

Recall: Simond Recalls Rocky Carabiner

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Simond Recalls Rocky Carabiner

Fault Rivets Are The Risk

2013/11/12, Les Houches-Chamonix, France: The frensh manufacturer of climbing gear Simond recalls individual charges their carabiner Rocky. Fault rivets at the gates are the risk.

Thursday, 10 October 2013 11:28

Recall: Wild Country Recalls Chocks

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Wild Country Recalls Chocks Classic Rocks and Anodised Rocks

2013/10/10, Tideswell, UK: The british manufacturer of climbing equipment Wild Country recalls their chocks from different series. After a break of a nut in use, Wild Country tested extensive their products Classic Rocks and Anodised Rocks. The result is a recall of this series since the year 2010.

Affected are following chocks:

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